Bradwell-on-Sea. 16 July 2025
It was the planning of this walk, rather than the execution, which presented the challenge. I had long wanted to introduce Morley Ramblers to the delights and mysteries of the North of the Dengie peninsula in Essex – but how to do it in an area in which public transport is at best unreliable, sparse and temperamental during the week and non- existent at the weekend? After dogged researches on the internet I finally found a bus that looked promising and so put the walk on the programme.
However in June I discovered that this triumph of optimism was short lived; the bus company had gone into administration in October 2024! The nearest train station is Southminster, the end of the line and six miles from the start of the walk. Surely there would be a taxi – but no! After four abortive telephone calls one taxi firm condescended to collect Daphne and me for the recce – provided we alighted at Burnham – on – Crouch. The owner declared that Southminster station is “crap and difficult to get to”!
Nihil desperandum; a phone call to Brigid, a long – standing friend of mine and resident of Bradwell, resolved our transport problems. Indeed Brigid, together with my childhood memories, was one of the inspirations for the walk.
So on July 16th eleven Morley Ramblers made the journey to Southminster station where we were collected by four generous inhabitants of Bradwell and nearby Tillingham. They also proved to be founts of local knowledge. They taxied us to our starting point – the car park near the isolated Saxon chapel of St Peter- on – the Wall
Left – the ancient barn like chapel of St Peter-on-the-Wall
Below – Saxon fishing traps and view across the Blackwater to Mersea Island
Indeed the main purpose of the walk was to visit this chapel, an ancient, stark and deeply spiritual place which is a miracle of survival. Built in 654 AD on the wall of the Roman fort of Orthona hard by the North Sea it still retains the Roman bricks used in its construction. Brigid is a former chaplain of the chapel and treated us to a potted history. She also came on the walk with us pointing out many other items of interest – and even led us down to the mud flats to sample some delicious samphire.
Fortified by an early snack stop, the group proceeded along the sea wall. We enjoyed the ever changing views out to sea and across the River Blackwater to Mersea Island as they morphed with the incoming tide. We passed a decaying WW2 observation post and some extraordinarily well preserved Saxon fishing traps. Less beguiling was the nuclear power station, which started generating in 1962 and was the first to be decommissioned in the UK. The two reactors, now under wraps, are the only remaining buildings, due for final demolition in 2083.
The weather on the recce had been blazing hot and Daphne and I were treated to the spectacle of two enthusiastic naturists in their birthday suits; one eagerly engaged us in conversation extolling the joys of being free in nature! However it was a different picture on the 16th when a stiff breeze blew and hunger overcame the desire for a swim on the deserted beach. We eventually reached Bradwell Marina where we enjoyed a late lunch at the excellent burger van named Munchies.
The afternoon walk took us over fields via the former WW2 RAF base of Bradwell Bay where we stopped at the war memorial to read its history.
We ended at the village of Bradwell, much of which is a conservation area where many of the buildings retain their seventeenth century characteristics. After viewing the village lock up, mounting block and the exteriors of the ancient houses and pub on the High Street we went into the village church of St Thomas which was founded in the thirteenth century but partially rebuilt in the nineteenth.
We were set for a swift half in the Kings Head pub but suddenly our carriages were announced enabling us to catch the only direct train back to Liverpool Street. There was just time for the curious to take a swift look into Brigid and Laurie’s seventeenth century cottage before our kindly chauffeurs whisked us back to Southminster station.
It was quite a short walk but somehow it filled the whole day with its many delights.
Thanks to Christine M for the photo of Saxon fishing traps and with great gratitude to drivers Ron, Roy, Sheila and Laurie – and to Brigid, without whom we would still be waiting at the station.
